We visited Copenhagen in December 2017, right before Christmas in the season of peak hygge! Despite the short sunlight hours, I thought this was really an amazing time to visit. Comparing the æbleskiver (Danish pancakes) from one Julemarked (Christmas Market) to the next, drinking gløgg (mulled wine), and experiencing so many variations of candlelit spaces (not to mention Danish lighting!), it seems that Denmark does winter pretty well. But 17.5 hours of daylight and warm weather in the summer doesn’t sound so bad either!
BEFORE YOU GO
Borgen 📺 I have a hard time getting into TV shows, but I binge-watched all three seasons of Borgen. Borgen means “the Castle,” and is the colloquial name for Christiansborg Palace, which houses all three branches of Danish government (executive, legislative, and judicial). In this show, you will follow the career of [my hero] Birgitte Nyborg, the fictional first female prime minister of Denmark. (In actual history, Helle Thorning-Schmidt was Denmark’s first female prime minister, in 2011.) This TV show is easily one of my favorite of all time. And then you can go and take a picture of yourself walking up the same courtyard steps as Birgitte!
Copenhagen Card 💳 is worth it. You have free transit on all modes throughout the whole region, and the vast majority of the tourist attractions you’ll want to go to are covered for free. Even the 25-mile train ride to the Louisiana Museum and museum admission is free! You can buy one in advance, or there’s a kiosk at the airport as well.
PLACES
- Rosenborg Castle 🏰 (site; map) is beautiful with lots of impressive paintings, tapestries, glass, and sculptures, and the crown jewels are pretty incredible.
- A canal tour ⛴ is a wonderful way to see a lot of the city! We did the stromma.dk tour (included on the Copenhagen Card) and it was great. Most of the canal tours will end at Nyhavn (New Harbor neighborhood), which is beautiful to walk around.
- Designmuseum Danmark 🛋 (site; map) has beautiful Danish design! You can see famous Danish-designed chairs, lamps, and more.
- Tivoli Gardens 🎠 (site; map) is an incredible theme park. It’s open in the summer, for Halloween, and also for the winter holidays. When we went it was a stunning winter wonderland. Even if you don’t go on the rides, you’ll still have plenty to explore.
- Louisiana Museum of Modern Art 🎨 (site; map) is about 25 miles outside the city and is a world-class modern art museum set on beautiful grounds. It’s an easy, scenic train ride up the coast and then a short walk or bus ride from the train station. Gleaming Lights of the Souls by Yayoi Kusama (link) is one of the many stunning works at this museum, and I loved the special exhibits that were there when we went. On your way back, maybe stop for a classic Danish meal at Gml. Humblebæk Kro (see below).
FOOD
That’s what it’s all about! 👏👏
- Torvehallerne Food Market 🍽 (site; map) is a great place to wander around, with lots of different options. This was the place where we enjoyed our first cup of gløgg, had delicious porridge at GRØD, but our favorite meal here was definitely at…
- Hallernes Smørrebrød 🥪 (site; map) I don’t know why we waited until our last 24 hours to eat here! Smørrebrød is the distinctly Danish open-faced sandwiches, and this place has about a dozen wonderful options. It was so, so good, and is less expensive than many of the other famous places to get smørrebrød. We enjoyed the æg og rejer (egg & shrimp), laks (lox — though there were two different lox options, one smoked and one not!), fiskefilet (fried fish), and tatar (beef tartare with a separate little cup of egg yolk!). As a vegetarian option, they also had potato salad.
- Paté Paté 🍽 (site; map) was a beautiful restaurant with great food. We had delicious burrata, pâté (go figure), a very memorable omelette, and Danish meatballs. Reservation suggested (you can make them online!).
- Marv & Ben 🍽 (site; map) is a fantastic place for a bit of a splurge on a nice dinner. Reservations necessary.
- Café Dyrehaven 🍽 (site; map) is a hip, retro place that’s good for brunch. It’s a block away from Mad & Kaffee (site) which also has excellent brunch!
- Smagsløget 🥪 (site; map) has sandwiches galore! Very inexpensive, generously sized, and delicious.
- Paludan Bogcafé ☕🍷🥗🍰📚 (site; map) is a book café! Enjoy tasty and reasonably priced food in a convivial atmosphere surrounded by books. Good for a drink, a casual meal, or a dessert.
- La Glace 🍰 (site; map) is the oldest “and probably the best confectionery in Denmark.” I can’t disagree. I suggest coming at a weird time of day, or right when they open, to avoid an incredibly long line. They have a dizzying array of delicious cakes and seasonal sweets. There’s a store on the second floor where you can buy treats to bring home.
- Democratic Coffee Bar ☕🥐 (site; map) is a coffee shop that is known for its outrageously incredible croissants.
- Lagkagehuset 🥐 (site; map) is a bakery that has multiple locations, including at the airport. Just go try every last thing you’re remotely interested in — the pastries are delicious, but don’t neglect the savory items! So many delicious, hearty breads.
- Gl. Humblebæk Kro (site; map) is the “Old Humblebæk Inn,” and is located across the street from the Louisiana Museum! The inn has existed since 1740, and it has a very warm and eclectic atmosphere and decor, with delicious food. This is a great place to try classic Danish dishes, and our waitress was happy to help us figure out what we should order. I would consider making a reservation in advance to enjoy a meal after your visit to the Louisiana Museum.